For many sports car, motorcycle, and motorhome enthusiasts across the Lower Mainland, the arrival of autumn marks the bittersweet end of the recreational driving and riding season. As the heavy rains and persistent dampness return, it’s time to prepare your cherished vehicle, whether it’s a sports car or a sporty electric vehicle (EV), for hibernation. While BC winters are generally mild, the combination of high precipitation and pervasive moisture - especially in low-lying areas near the Fraser River like Abbotsford, Maple Ridge, and North Langley - poses a unique challenge for long-term vehicle storage.
We’ve got a practical, step-by-step approach to winterization, ensuring your car, whether it’s a traditional petrol engine, a hybrid, or an EV, is ready for a seamless revival come spring.
Step 1: Comprehensive Cleaning and Pest Control
The foundation of a good winter storage plan is starting with a vehicle that is truly clean. This process protects the finish, removes corrosive elements, and eliminates pest attractants.
Exterior and Interior Cleaning
Before parking your car for several months, give it a meticulous cleaning, paying special attention to areas prone to collecting corrosive grime. Road dirt, dust, and any trace of road salt from early snowfall events or highway spray must be removed from the bodywork as well as the undercarriage and wheel wells. A thorough undercarriage wash is a simple yet effective defense against corrosion during months of inactivity.
Once clean, a coat of quality wax or sealant will provide a protective barrier against condensation and dust accumulation in the storage environment. On the interior, remove all trash, vacuum carpets, and wipe down surfaces. Food crumbs and small debris, left over extended periods, can leach oils and stains deep into carpet and upholstery fibres, making cleanup difficult and also attracting unwanted guests.
Pest and Moisture Management
The persistent humidity of the Lower Mainland can lead to mold, mildew, and corrosion if ignored.
Moisture Control: Place several desiccant packs (silica gel, moisture-absorbing crystals, or even charcoal briquettes), found at your local hardware or dollar store, inside the cabin and trunk. These materials will passively absorb humidity, safeguarding upholstery, carpets, and sensitive electronics. If your storage location is fully secure and dry, you may consider cracking the windows slightly (1 to 2 centimetres) to encourage gentle air circulation, which prevents musty odours.
Pest Defence: Critters often seek warm, dry shelter in vehicles during the cold months. Block any open air intakes and accessible areas within the engine bay with steel wool or wire mesh, providing a barrier that is difficult for pests to chew through. While blocking the exhaust pipe (for combustion engines) is an option, it must be done with extreme caution. If you choose to use an exhaust plug, attach a brightly coloured tag or ribbon to it and place a large reminder note on the steering wheel to ensure removal is the first step when you recommission the car to prevent severe engine damage.
Step 2: Power and Propulsion System Care
This is where storage preparation differs significantly depending on the vehicle's powertrain. Whether you own a petrol V8 or a state-of-the-art EV, attention to the energy source is paramount.
Traditional Combustion Engines and Hybrids
Fluid and Filter Service: Change the engine oil and filter before storage. Used engine oil contains combustion by-products and corrosive acids that should not be allowed to sit for months against internal engine components. Also, check and top up the coolant/antifreeze, brake fluid, and windshield washer fluid. Consider changing your cabin air filter before storage to ensure any existing moisture, dust, or potential mold spores are removed, minimizing the risk of stale or musty air developing while the car is stationary.
12-Volt Battery Care: The traditional 12-volt battery that powers accessories and computers can drain over time, especially in modern sports cars with complex electronics. It is highly recommended to connect the 12-volt system to a dedicated battery tender or maintainer to prevent it from going flat.
Fuel System Stability: With modern ethanol-blended petrol, fuel degradation can be a concern. Fill the fuel tank completely—this minimizes the air space inside the tank, which in turn significantly reduces the potential for internal condensation (water) buildup and rust. Add a quality fuel stabilizer to the tank according to the product directions, and then run the engine for 10 to 15 minutes to ensure the treated fuel has circulated throughout the entire fuel system, including the fuel lines and injectors.
Electric Vehicle (EV) and Hybrid Battery Care
High-voltage batteries in EVs and plug-in hybrids require a specific state-of-charge to maintain long-term health.
Optimal Charge: Do not store a lithium-ion battery at 100% or below 20% for extended periods. Most manufacturers recommend a charge level between 50% and 75% for long-term storage. This range reduces stress on the battery cells.
Step 3: Protecting the Chassis and Body
While the engine sleeps, the physical chassis and exterior need protection from the constant pressure of weight and the storage environment.
Tire and Suspension Care
Leaving tires sitting in the same spot for months can lead to flat spots, especially in cooler temperatures.
Inflation: Before storing, it is generally recommended to inflate tires up to the maximum pressure indicated on the tire's sidewall (the highest safe cold pressure listed there), rather than the lower pressure on the door jamb sticker. This maximum pressure is for static storage only. The extra pressure helps prevent flat spots, but you must reduce the pressure back to the door jamb specification before driving.
Positioning: For seasonal storage (up to seven months), over-inflation is generally sufficient. If you plan to store the car for a year or longer, or if you have extremely soft track-focused tires, consider elevating the vehicle on quality jack stands to take all weight off the rubber and suspension components.
Parking Brake: Avoid engaging the parking brake. While uneven ground is common in parts of BC, using the parking brake for extended periods in our damp climate risks brake pads fusing to the rotors. Instead, ensure the vehicle is secured using wheel chocks placed securely at the front and back of at least one tire for stability. Supplement this security by leaving a manual transmission vehicle in gear or an automatic in Park.
The Ideal Storage Environment
The storage location must be dry, secure, and on an appropriate surface.
Surface Matters: Aim to park your vehicle on a solid, level surface like concrete or asphalt. Avoid gravel, dirt, or bare earth, as these surfaces hold and wick moisture directly up to the underside of the car, accelerating rust and corrosion.
The Cover: Use a high-quality, breathable car cover made of soft cotton or a fleece-lined synthetic material. This protects the paint from dust and accidental scratches while allowing any residual moisture to escape. Never use a non-breathable plastic tarp, as this traps moisture and condensation against the finish, which can lead to disastrous paint and chrome damage.
Myth Debunked: Should I Start My Car During Winter Storage?
This is a common and damaging myth in car storage. If you Google the keyword "should i start my car during winter storage," you will find conflicting advice, but the consensus among experts is clear: No, you should not start or idle your combustion-engine car periodically.
Short periods of idling are worse than doing nothing at all. When an engine starts, it generates water vapour as a by-product of combustion. If the engine oil does not get hot enough (which typically requires a minimum of 20 to 30 kilometres of driving) to reach its boiling point and boil off that condensation, the water mixes with combustion acids in the oil. This corrosive mixture sits on engine components, leading to accelerated wear, sludge formation, and potential damage to seals and bearings.
For both combustion and electric vehicles, the goal is true hibernation: prepare it properly, connect the battery tender, and leave it alone until spring.
Spring Start-up Checklist: Waking the Beast
When the weather turns consistently dry and the desire to drive returns, follow these steps to safely bring your sports car out of storage:
Check for Pests: Inspect the engine bay, exhaust tips, and air intakes with a shop light or flashlight and use a small mirror to check obscure angles, ensuring all pest blocks are removed and no critters have taken residence. Look for common signs of rodents, such as fur, nesting materials, and chewed wiring or hoses.
Disconnect Tender: Remove the battery tender from the 12-volt battery and reconnect the main terminal if it was removed.
Tire Check: Lower the tire pressure from the temporary maximum down to the manufacturer's recommended cold specification (found on the driver’s door jamb).
Fluid Check: Check all fluid levels (oil, coolant, brake fluid) one last time.
First Start: For petrol cars, turn the key, allow the fuel pump to prime, and start the engine. Let it idle calmly for a few minutes to allow the oil to circulate fully before driving. For EVs, simply confirm the battery charge is adequate.
Brake Test: Drive cautiously, applying the brakes lightly to clean off any surface rust that may have formed on the rotors.
Detail: Give the car a thorough wash to remove accumulated storage dust, and prepare for the driving season ahead!
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Your sports car is an investment and a passion project. Follow these practical steps tailored to the damp conditions of BC, and you’ll ensure it remains in peak condition, ready to enjoy the province’s beautiful roads the moment spring arrives!
Keep yourself busy this winter by Cleaning out your garage or treat yourself with our Top 10 Winter Driving Must-Haves.